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001 Zagreb cathedral

21/12/2018

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Regions, cities and towns: Zagreb #001

Zagreb cathedral

Zagrebačka Katedrala

Katedrala Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marija i sv. Stjepana i Ladislava

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and St. Stjepan and Ladislav

At 108 m, the Zagreb Cathedral is the second highest building in Croatia, a long way short of the highest: the 169 m Zagreb TV tower perched on top of the mountain Slijeme behind Zagreb.

It is the most obvious landmark in Zagreb, being visible from kilometres away in all directions. If you make your way by site toward the cathedral, (apart from the fact that lots of one-way streets will mess with your direction) you will be heading directly toward the very centre of Zagreb.
​

The cathedral is located in an area (and street) called Kaptol, just up from the main square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), across the road (Kaptol) from the Dolac market, and at the bottom of the upper town (Gornji Grad).
Picture
Reaching skywards, in the very heart of Zagreb.
The cathedral is an imposing, and instantly recognizable, structure .....
​

Picture
As you can see, at the time of this photo, the tower on the right (South) was being renovated.
Picture
But wait! According to this photo, the left (North) tower was under reconstruction.
What's going on? What illusion is this​
​
What’s going on? Well, that’s a long story ……. about 800 years long. Behind these photos is a continuing story of damage and destruction, followed by restoration.
​

Na početku ….

The Diocese of Zagreb was declared (actually moved from Sisak) by King Ladislaus of Hungary in 1093. A cathedral to replace the previously re-existing church was finished and consecrated in 1217.

In 1242, invading Mongols didn’t like it much, and destroyed it.

Ne daj se!

Back to work! Bishop Timothy had it rebuilt in the late 13th century. The single-tower cathedral stood the test of time (more or less) for 600 years, partly because of surrounding fortifications constructed to defend against invading Ottomans at the end of the 15th century – some of which are still intact.

In 1624 lightning stuck the cathedral, causing a fire that burned the roof and destroyed the vault.
Restoration was still in progress when, in 1646, a fire in the roof was so intense that, among other damage, the bells melted.

Chicken feed compared with what happened 234 years later ….
​

Katastrofa i onda obnova ….

1880 brought disaster in the form of a massive earthquake which destroyed the tower and badly damaged the main nave.

Reconstruction in neo-Gothic style included the two spires that are present today.

Restoration work to counter visible deterioration was continuous from 1968.

Obnova tornjeva

Because of poor quality stone used in the reconstruction after the 1880 earthquake, renovation to repair deterioration of the two towers was commenced in 1990. This involved erection of scaffolding around one or other, or both, of the towers at various times.

So we have an explanation for the apparent illusion in the two photographs above. I took the photo on the right win 2004, and that on the left in 2018. Work was underway on the North tower in 2004, but had progressed to other some time before 2018.

It has been estimated that at least 60% of the citizens of Zagreb, because of (relatively) recent birth, or recent arrival, have never seen the Zagreb cathedral without a dress on at least one of the spires.

Katastrofa nakon katostrofe ….

Recall February 2020. How could we not! The corona virus arrives. Not as visible as the Mongols or Ottomans centuries earlier, but just as potent. As if that is not enough ….

At 06:24 on the morning of 22 March, 2020, an earthquake of magnitude 5.3 occurred with epicentre 7 kilometres north of Zagreb city centre. This is followed over days by aftershocks with intensity up to 5.0. You can read details in Wikipedia about the 2020 Zagreb earthquake.

Damage to the city centre, including to many of its historic and architecturally noteworthy buildings was enormous, and reconstruction and renovation will be taking place for years to come.

And what of the cathedral?

The tip of its southern spire (on the right looking toward the portal of the cathedral) was dislodged, and fell onto the roof of the adjacent Bishop’s Palace.

Picture
A view of the Zagreb Cathedral just after the 2020 earthquake. The tip of the South tower (which was under renovation at the time) has fallen off. (Photo by MOHR/F. KIen)
The other spire was assessed to be in danger of falling, so was removed with the assistance of explosives installed by military personnel.
Picture
Many onlookers experienced deep sadness at the moment captured by this photo.
Photo from   https://www.livecamcroatia.com/en/news/renovation-of-the-zagreb-cathedral/
 
A sada (kolovoz 2023. g)?

Well, both towers are surrounded by a huge scaffolding network which is quite impressive technically and artistically.
Picture
It will be a long time before we see the cathedral spires naked
​I imagine that it will be an occasion of great significance to the purgers when the scaffolding is eventually removed to expose the full beauty of the cathedral.
​


A story of disaster and sadness, or a symbol of resilience and future?

Many regard the ongoing story of the cathedral as a symbol of promise.

You might like to read the online article: Save your tears for the cathedral, its promise is a greater symbol of Zagreb than its towers.
​
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Getting around

You can browse or search this website in the following ways:
  • Use the drop-down menus from the buttons at the top of each page to browse page titles.
  • Click to go to the ROAD MAP (also from the drop-down menu under the NAVIGATION button).
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      • 001 Kosa, koza, koža
      • 002 Pronouncing 'au'
      • 003 Can language influence behaviour?
      • 004 First day of the week
      • 005 Do Croatians assign gender to objects?
      • 006 Za četiri dana, na dva dana
      • 007 My brain becomes full!
      • 008 Sretan rođendan ti
      • 009 Na kavu, po kavu, za kavu?
      • 010 Until you don't do it
      • 011 Nazvati nekoga, telefonirati nekomu
      • 012 If she were a man ....
      • 013 Streets with two names?
      • 015 Tri, četiri, sad!
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      • 016 I feel like crying!
      • 017 I felt like crying, I will feel like crying
      • 018 Picking up place names by ear
      • 019 Where did the "j" go?
      • 020 Koliko kiše smo imali?
      • 021 Požuri polako
      • 022 Mi, mi, mi, mi
      • 023 Why should we learn the grammar?
      • 024 Words for youngsters are neuter
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      • 003 Endings of pronouns and adjectives
      • 004 "u" ili "na" ?
      • 005 The declensions of Tko? and Što?
      • 006 Ja sam na Trgu bana Josipa Jelačića
      • 007 Going and coming: u-iz, but na-sa
      • 008 Sav - All, every
      • 009 Number of subjects and the verb 'biti'
      • 010 Koga nazoveš? Komu telefoniraš?
      • 011 Declension of place names
      • 012 Dati - dativ
      • 013 Verb endings: Who is the doer?
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        • 002 All nouns have gender
        • 003 Nouns in the nominative case
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        • 004a A universal declension table?
        • 005 Declension of regular masculine nouns
        • 006 Declension of regular feminine nouns
        • 008 Masculine plural - infix or not?
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      • 006 Eto ti ga na!
      • 007 Na licu mjesta
      • 008 Sve si to ti kriv!
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      • 001 Even dying is not easy!
      • 002 To laugh or to smile?
      • 003 Nahraniti, sahraniti .... schmahraniti
      • 004 Prefixes that modify verb meanings
      • 005 Prefixes on base verb stati
      • 006 Country names - noun or adjective?
      • 007 Names of towns: A grammatical nightmare
      • 008 Countries: What do we call their citizens?
      • 009 Baš
      • 010 What a joke! vic or šala?
      • 011 Čak
      • 012 Još or više? (More of something)
      • 013 Još or više? (Time-related)
    • FRAZEOLOGIJA - HOME >
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        • 001 RUKA
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        • 001 UZIMATI/UZETI
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    • Što je korijen riječi?: HOME >
      • 001 Nadimak
      • 002 Zora, prozor, zoran, ….
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      • 001 Anthem: LIJEPA NAŠA
      • 002 Map of Croatia
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    • Where/What/Who is that? HOME >
      • Where/What/Who? Pages 1 - 15 >
        • 001 A girl and a bird
        • 002 His left foot
        • 003 A rebel
        • 004 Čuvarica Omiša
        • 005 Giorgio or Juraj?
        • 006 Tovar and friend
        • 007 Up on high
        • 008 On an island
        • 009 Water wonderland
    • REGIONS, CITIES, TOWNS: HOME >
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        • THE CITY >
          • 001 Zagreb cathedral
        • PEOPLE and CULTURE >
          • 001 Advent in Zagreb
          • 002 Interliber book fair
          • 004 On the tramvaj in Zagreb
          • 005 A night at the ballet
      • DALMACIJA: HOME >
        • BEING AND SPEAKING DALMATIAN: HOME >
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